March 19, 2010 | Singapore
Issue #501: Reclaim Your Lunch

Italian Stallion

Italian Stallion

June 5th, 2009

You’ve been to his restaurant and tried his food many, many times; and seen his face even more countless times in the press. But in person, famous chef Angelo Sanelli is a charming, straight-talking, no-beating-about-the-bush kind of guy. By Belinda Wan

Early this year, a surprising bit of news broke out in the dining scene: Chef Angelo Sanelli parted ways with the Michelangelo’s Restaurant Group. After having made a name for himself in restaurants like Michelangelo’s, Zambuca and Sistina (which is now closed), the news came as a shock to many. Shortly after, Sanelli set up his own baby in Arab Street with his wife Jayanthi—a French-Italian restaurant called Mietta’s (which means “sweet little one”). We sat down with the charming and chatty chef for a casual (in fact, very casual) tête-à-tête about his childhood, living in Singapore and challenges ahead.

What were your fondest childhood ambitions?
It was to be a cook—always. In those days, I didn’t know the difference between a chef and a cook because I was very young, but all I knew was that I wanted to work in the kitchen. My sister used to cook at a very early age—but she was more into desserts and pastries; but I was more inclined towards doing roasts, sauces and making pastas by hand. We were very much a family unit, so it was always fun making things like wine and tomato sauce, as it was always a couple of families who would do them. All this was great, until I got older and got interested in women and booze (laughs).

You’ve been in the restaurant business for more than 30 years. What has that taught you?
It’s taught me that when you get to a certain level, there are far more things you can do as far as teaching and charity are concerned. You also learn about personal growth in people; how to have longevity with the people who work with you. I’ve had people who have worked with me for nearly 12 years. In this industry, it’s unheard of. Singapore’s been good to me; and I think I’ve been good to Singapore. You don’t just take; you’ve got to give back to others not as fortunate as yourself. I teach the kids [that he is teaching to cook] too not to walk away from something just because you don’t like the way someone is talking to you. 

What is your philosophy as a restaurateur and chef?

If you don’t like what you do, get out. If you don’t have the passion that you once had for it, it’s time to move on. Don’t “show face” to your customers—don’t make them unhappy because you’re not happy with what you’re doing. People shouldn’t pay for your unhappiness. I can be really sick, but as soon as the customer comes through that door, I’m not sick anymore—I’ll be as happy as I can be.

Why did you leave the Michelangelo’s Restaurant Group?
That I can’t answer, unfortunately. Not at the moment. I’ve been there 15 years, started it; so obviously it’s not something clear-cut. But I can’t answer this.

Any reason why you picked Arab Street for your new restaurant Mietta’s?
I like it because it’s a little bit bohemian. I feel that things will change. And they’re actually changing—in the past few months, there’s been a bit of change in shop fronts and attitudes.

How did you decide on your menu items? Do you take local taste buds into account or do you aim to surprise Singaporean palates?
We just do different specials, put it out to the floor and see which ones work the best.

What do you do when something goes wrong in the restaurant?
I try to adjust it straight away if it’s my mistake. Saying sorry never seems right sometimes; I just try to do better. Sorry is easy. Sorry is like a guy who goes around with a lot of ladies saying “I love you.” It doesn’t mean anything. I always try to say, “Give us another chance.” I won’t blame the staff or the kitchen; I’ll blame myself for not being everywhere at the same time. I don’t like it when people hammer a restaurant when it’s busy and short-staffed. One of the staff may have been called away at the last minute; things happen.

What is the biggest challenge facing you now?
Letting people know where I am. I’ve had so many customers who’ve recently got my number asking me where I am; and I say I’m at Arab Street, opposite the Golden Landmark. But that is definitely my biggest hurdle at the moment.

What’s the one thing you expect from your staff?
Loyalty. If they’re loyal to me, they’ll be loyal to the customers.

What do you think of the dining scene here? Do you see any trends?
There are a lot of copycats. People who don’t have any imagination, people who just spend a fortune on this and that, and hope for the best. If it doesn’t work, it doesn’t matter. You’re better off doing something else. I like the fact that there’s lots of dining experiences. But I don’t like it when reports on restaurants say, “Do yourselves a favor and shut down.” You know what, chap? You’re an ass. Because you’ve just killed that guy, who may have put himself in debt to open the restaurant.

Any handy tips for aspiring restaurateurs?
Just remember that the customer is always right. Don’t start a business if you don’t want to do special orders. Don’t do it if you think that you’re better than the customer. I serve people. I enjoy serving people. The better I serve, the better I like it. I don’t think I am better than anybody. I’ve seen people who talk to their staff like they’re garbage, calling them “idiot” and “stupid.” Show a bit of respect to the guy at the back of the restaurant. I get really pissed when this happens, because I’ve done the dishes. I’ve scrubbed and cleaned for a long time; so show some respect to the guy who does your dishes because he keeps you mobile. He’s the least paid but he does the most shit jobs.

What’s your greatest fear?
The inability to grow, teach and be an inspiration to someone. I think being without my wife would be horrendous for me. In terms of work—for me, it’s not being able to do my job properly. There are other things to do, but I don’t have a love for other things as much as I do for cooking.

What makes you happy?
Having a really nice, peaceful day with my wife and daughter at the same time. Just being able to go somewhere for dinner; just spending good quality time together. Quality time is something that’s really difficult, because even on my days off I have other jobs to do as well. I like TV characters like Hannah Montana, too; I think she’s wonderful—she holds her family and schoolwork together. I’m a big cartoon freak. I also love comics. I like art, and music too—Linkin Park, Black Sabbath. A lot of my music is rock. And I love barbeques and kids.

What to you has been life’s most important lesson?
It’s all about being humble, really. Always be humble. I don’t like people who are too proud.

Mietta’s, 126 Arab St., 6396-5493.