There’s much more to the region than oil wells and post-war wreckage. By Conor Purcell.

The Middle East—for all its problems—has some of the most beautiful scenery, important cultural centers and fascinating cities on the planet. When Donald Rumsfeld referred to the region as a “tough neighborhood” he was talking about its security situation, yet the drive to attract tourists is just as difficult.
And therein lies Kuwait’s problem. Its landscape is scarred by oil wells and the still uncleared wreckage of the first Gulf War. It lacks the ambition of the UAE or the cultural nous of Qatar. Even Saudi Arabia, for all its problems, has a certain hold on the Western psyche. But Kuwait is often ignored—just another oil-rich dictatorship with nothing but sand, fast cars and petrol cheaper than water.
This is unfair. Scratch the surface and this city-state has a lot to offer. True, it’s dry, the roads seem to be a playground for suicidal motorists and security is everywhere. Fast food appears to be the cuisine of choice, and as a result the country has one of the highest rates of diabetes in the world.
But then you get lost in the old markets that dot the center of town, sip Turkish coffee on the corniche or marvel at the spectacular kitsch of the Kuwait Towers, all is forgiven.
For most of the population, Kuwait’s social life is centered along the corniche, a 10-kilometer stretch of promenade that winds along the coast. Friday is the best day to go: Indian families have picnics, white-robed locals drink coffee and argue, waving the day’s newspapers, children play cricket and couples stroll hand-in-hand. Crime is non-existent here and the locals are extremely welcoming—even by Middle Eastern standards.
The corniche is home to a number of attractions and it’s worth taking the day to stroll from one end to the other. Start at the Kuwait Towers, which is 187 meters high and the ultimate in 1970’s aesthetics. You can go to the two-level observation deck and sip a coffee while overlooking the entire city. Go just before sunset and as darkness falls you can spot the flames from the oil wells that dot the south of the city, rather eerie reminders of where the money comes from.
Slightly farther is Beit Dickson, or Dickson’s House, where the former British political agent Colonel Harold Dickson lived. The walls are covered in letters of agreement signed by Dickson that handed over the territory of Kuwait to the Al-Sabah family. There is no irony in these documents, framed as they are, next to images of smiling Westerners opening oil fields next to a robed Bedouin.
Oil dominates Kuwait—it has built the country, led to the 1991 Iraqi invasion and its sales still dominate the economy. Yet the new generation of Kuwaitis—aware that the black stuff is running out—are keen to change the conversation. There is plenty of cutting-edge culture if you know where to look. Take Dar Al Funoon (Beh churches, 965-243-3138, www.daralfunoon.com), a mixed media art gallery for emerging local and international artists. Check out I Love Souk (The Corniche, Arabian Gulf Rd., Al Shaab, www.alsabahcollection.com), a concept shop doubling as an art gallery that is perfect for that unique gift from Kuwait (when a stuffed camel just won’t do).
If you are after shopping of the more traditional kind, head to the old center of town, where, under the looming presence of the Liberation Tower, the Al Juma Souq has everything from hot water bottles to smuggled Iranian antiques. The prices are not fixed so make sure you haggle. There are some great hole-in-the-wall restaurants at the southern end of the Souq with everything from Yemeni to Ethiopian food on offer. The whole center of the city is an architect’s dream—from the gleaming new towers being built to the ‘70s and ‘80s-era buildings that compete with them. Add the numerous mosques, a bustling street-life and you quickly realize Kuwait’s city center is one of the most vibrant in the Gulf.
While there are plenty of hotels in the city center, for a less hectic experience try the Mövenpick Al Bida’a (Salmiya Gulf Rd., 965-222-53100, www.moevenpick.com), located just south of the central area. With its own beach and numerous swimming pools, it’s a rather nice place to get away from the mayhem of downtown Kuwait City.
It may not be on everyone’s must-see list, but if you are in the region and have a few days to spare, Kuwait should be on your itinerary—just leave your preconceptions at home.

Getting There
Singapore Airlines flies to Kuwait via Abu Dhabi four times a week.
Return fares from $1,519.
Book at www.singaporeair.com.